Monthly Archives: January 2014


For the finish I went with a simple tung oil and wax. The reason behind that was this table will see some use as it is a kitchen prep table. So I didn’t want it to be a fine furniture finish. Something simple that is durable yet easily repaired is best.

The table’s final destination.

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Drawer Pulls

I had some nice antique brass drawer pulls that look quite nice against the deep red of the bubinga but I had to forgo them as the screws were an odd length and I couldn’t find a replacement. I know just but new screws but they are inch and I am in a country that uses metric so it was too much searching for something so small. I ended up making them, which is just as easy.

For this I choose some birds-eye maple I had and route a groove with a round-over bit on all four side.

After the groove has been routed I cut a bevel on the top and put in some 4mm wood anchors.


The final appearance.

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Table Top Anchors

After the top was done I had to attach some anchors to the base so as to be able to attach the top. There are 8 of these to keep the top flat and anchored properly. I glued and screwed them to the skirt.

In this picture you can see 6 of the 8 attached.

And then the final 2.

A better view of all 8 attached.

Now the top is ready to be attached. Next I will make some drawer pulls.

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The Table Top

Making a table top looks pretty easy but there are a couple of things to consider. First and foremost match the grain as this will be what you look at everyday. Second you want a tight joint.

To get a nice grain match I like to use wood from the same tree for the entire top. Here I have a length of wood 3000x400mm. My top is going to be 950×750 so I should have no problem getting a nice top out of this. Also as a side note this piece of wood here is quite twisted and warped so I will have to choose carefully from where I take it to minimize work to flatten it.

So I cut my boards to length and then I had to rip them down the middle as they were too cupped to work. After cutting them I jointed and planed the to dimension. Here I have matched the grain to what I think is the most aesthetically pleasing.

Next I stand them up and stack them to see the joint. The boards in this position have to make a flat plane to glue up flat. Also the joint has to have no gaps. Often I have trouble getting a perfect 90 degree cut on the board so I use what I call a open-book method. That is lay the boards down in the grain matched position and then fold them together as you would close a book. Cut them in that position. If your blade is slightly off then one side of your cut will be 89.990 for example and the matching side will be 90.01 making a perfect 180 degree. After making the cut I will use a plane to clean up the table saw marks.

When I am happy with the joint I glue it up in section. This top will have four boards so I glue two sections up and then the final.

The big top. I used cauls to keep it flat on the ends. This is just a regular but joint on side grain but it is strong.

After I take the clamps off I clean up the glue and scrape and plane it. This wood had a problem of tear-out so I did minimal planing and some sanding.


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